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This is France’s oldest wine region. In fact, the Languedoc-Roussillon is probably the first area in France where the Romans introduced viticulture. But given the extraordinary turnaround in the quality of its wines, I found the epithet quite apt. There seems to be a youthful exuberance in this region on the part of winemakers that is evidenced by their sacrificing quantity for quality, or by experimenting with new varietals, or by forfeiting appellation status to achieve the perfect blend. Indeed, the offspring from this rebirth that began in the 1970s is still relatively young, especially when compared to its relatives in Bordeaux and Burgundy.

The Languedoc-Roussillon actually comprises two regions: the Languedoc, which stretches westward from the bottom of the Rhone down to the Pyrenees hugging the Mediterranean coast, and Roussillon, which curves southward from north of Perpignan to the Spanish border. Combined, this region covers over 400,000 acres of vines and produces close to 18 million hectoliters of wine a year. So vast and so fertile is this region that, not so long ago, it was frequently referred to, quite disparagingly, as France’s great “wine lake.”

The over production in this region started in the mid-19^th century when the arrival of railroads made transporting wines affordable and opened the markets in the north. The mass production lead to weak wines that were often strengthened by adding wine from Algeria and elsewhere in North Africa. When Algeria won independence in 1962, new sources for strengthening wines were found in southern Italy. In fact, when wine producers realized that it was cheaper to import from Italy than to blend,  local growers began to riot. Eventually, in the early 1970s, the government stepped in and began to encourage the  production of  higher quality wines. Through financial assistance, educational and research endeavors, the formation of cooperatives, and the creation of  the vin de pays classification, which is a step above the everyday vin ordinaire, the government was able to reclaim the area.  Progress has continued, and these days, the innovation among wine producers has, like the miracle at Cana, turned much of this lake’s “water” into delicious wine.

The Languedoc-Roussillon is primarily red-wine country, and the classic varietals of this region are: Carignan, Cinsault, and Grenache. Carignan provides body and weight; Grenache contributes alcohol and color, and Cinsault adds fruit and acidity. Whereas older regulations typically limited production to these varietals, newer standards and, perhaps most important, the flexibility of the vin de pays classification have allowed producers to cultivate and experiment with other varieties, such as Mourvedre and Syrah as well as with Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. More liberal guidelines have enabled producers to exploit their individual vineyards’ strengths and to adjust their blends either to reflect their own tastes or to compensate for the climactic conditions of the harvest.

For white wines, today’s winemakers, along similar lines, are eschewing the traditional appellation white varieties such as Bourboulenc, Clairette, Maccabeo, Ugni Blanc, and Picpoul for Sauvignon Blanc, Roussanne, Marsanne, and Viognier. Native Muscats, however, are still prized. And the region is also known for its vins doux naturels, made from the Muscats of Frontignan and Lunel, some truly delightful dessert wines.

Listing all the appellation controlle regions of the Languedoc-Roussillon with their ever changing sub-classifications and labeling laws seems as difficult as diagramming complex sentences back in grammar school. Not surprisingly, the most famous are also the ones producing the best wines.

In the Languedoc, Corbieres, Minervois, the Coteaux de Languedoc with its many subdivisions such as St. Chinan and Faugeres, and Costieres de Nimes are the major appellations. Space does not allow me to describe each of these regions here. However, to get a detailed description of each of the appellations with comments on the climate, soil, grape varieties, and other relevant information, visit the outstanding website Languedoc AOC Wines and select “Languedoc AOC” on the menu bar at the top of the page.

The Muscats of Frontignan, Lunel, and Mireval are nectar-like examples of vins doux naturels, wines that are stopped early in their fermentation by the addition of spirits. These are sweet wines that are relatively high in alcohol and can be the perfect way to end a meal.

In the Roussillon, the major appellations are Cotes du Roussillon, Cotes du Roussillon Villages, Maury, and Banyuls. Banyuls’ vins doux are among the most prized of their type, are often recommended to pair with chocolate desserts, and, not surprisingly, can be quite expensive. Maury produces similar wines, but they do not have the reputation of  those from Banyuls. Perhaps the wines of most interest from the Cotes du Roussillon-Villages are the new-style whites made with tasty varietals like Roussanne and Marsanne and other local varietals.

When shopping for these wines, as I hope you will, the vintages to look for are 1998 and 1995. The 1999 vintage suffered some hail damage, but may still be good. Most Languedoc-Roussillon reds are generally ready to drink 12 to15 months after the vintage; whites are ready in about half that time. Only the best of these wines can age well and should be at their prime in approximately three years.

The French enjoy 11 national jours feriés (holidays) annually. The civic calendar was first instituted in 1582; Bastille Day was incorporated in 1789, Armistice Day in 1918, Labor Day in 1935, and Victory Day in 1945. During the month of May, there is a holiday nearly every week, so be prepared for stores, banks and museums to shut their doors for days at a time. It is a good idea to call museums, restaurants and hotels in advance to make sure they will be open.

Trains and roads near major cities tend to get busy around the national holidays. Not coincidentally, this also happens to be the time when service unions (such as transporters, railroad workers, etc.) like to go on strike — something of a tradition, in fact. Travelers would do well to check ahead, particularly when planning a trip for the last week of June or first week of July!

There are also many regional festivals throughout France which are not included in our calendar. ViaFrance hosts an excellent site which lists fairs and festivals, traditional ceremonies, as well as sporting events, concerts, and trade shows for all regions throughout France.

Under the law, every French citizen is entitled to 5 weeks of vacation. Most of the natives take their summer vacations in July or August, and many major businesses are then closed. All of France takes to the roads, railroads, boats, and airways. Consequently, traveling in France during August is generally not recommended for foreigners.

Public Holidays

1 January	New Year's Day (Jour de l'an)
1 May	Labor Day (Fête du premier mai)
8 May	WWII Victory Day (Fête de la Victoire 1945; Fête du huitième mai)
14 July	Bastille Day (Fête nationale)
15 August	Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary (Assomption)
1 November	All Saints Day (La Toussaint)
11 November	Armistice Day (Jour d'armistice)
25 December	Christmas Day (Noël)
26 December	2nd Day of Christmas (in Alsace and Lorraine only)

Moveable Feasts

Religion: Christian (Western)

Feast	2004	2005	2006	2007	2008	2009
Good Friday*	9 April	25 March	14 April	6 April	21 March	10 April
Easter (Pâques)	11 April	27 March	16 April	8 April	23 March	12 April
Easter Monday	12 April	28 March	17 April	9 April	24 March	13 April
Ascension (l'Ascencion)	20 May	5 May	25 May	17 May	1 May	21 May
Pentecost (la Pentecôte)	30 May	15 May	4 June	27 May	11 May	31 May
Whit Monday	31 May	16 May	5 June	28 May	12 May	1 June

*In Alsace and Lorraine only.

In years when Ascension Day concurs with Victory Day, we mark only the former, thus ignoring the latter.

Metal workers have the holiday of St. Eloi, July 24 (Festival of St. Eloi - French Basque).

Note that when a holiday happens to fall on a Tuesday or Thursday, many French workers may take the Monday or, respectively, Friday, off as well. This is not official and does not apply to institutions such as banks or government, but is sufficiently commonplace to cause difficulties doing business on occasion

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